©ourtesy of Sarah Harris @ Vogue.uk
MOSCHINO turns 30 this year and celebrations have been non-stop. As one would expect from a house such as this, a milestone anniversary was never going to slip by, unnoticed. The Italians already staged a runway show in Shanghai earlier this year, and everyone was expecting something bigger and better on home turf this week. Invitations arrived accompanied by a boxed white t-shirt branded “For Fashion Victims Only,” and for days now, rumours have been circling of Gloria Gaynor set to perform I am what I am. Those rumours proved true. The show opened with video footage of founder Franco Moschino, who died in 1994 from complications of AIDS, aged just 44. It was a poignant moment, but show-goers, fuelled by champagne supped in the courtyard, were in the mood for a party and with that, the curtain opened and out popped Pat Cleveland in that full-skirted “cow” gown (the same gown she wore 30 years ago, in 1983 for the house’s first ever fashion show). The crowd lapped it up whooping and cheering. Only in Milan. Other archival hits followed, such as the clustered teddy bear hat and scarf, and a ball gown made from bin bags.
The spring collection that followed is best described as a catalogue of reworked greatest hits, from safety-pinned embellished black jackets with ring-pull zip pockets, to rose-printed dresses, gingham bloomers, monochrome ruffle-collared skirt suits and T-shirts emblazoned “Niente” and a caftan that read “Holy Chic”. Everything was trussed up on good girls or bad girls, the former accessorised with pearls, the latter with brassy gold chains, hoop earrings, and those shouty logo belts. It was humorous, delightful, outrageous and ridiculous and in all, a thoroughly fitting tribute by Rossella Jardini, Frano Moschino’s friend and former assistant who took up the reins in the mid Nineties – and yes, there are many pieces here that will prove to be commercial hits too, when these clothes land in stores in spring – but in truth, that wasn’t really the point of it all this evening. Take it away Gaynor…!