Fashion Designer fashions – sketches & fashion shows blog.

Paris Fashion Week hotties show edgyness on the Runway

Balenciaga, Rick Owns, Dries Van Noten, Rochas, Ann Demeulemeester focus


Paris Fall fashion collections began awkwardly. Milan had been so stoutly clear: Bottega Veneta, Jil Sander, weird but wonderful Prada. Now we were 27 floors above the Left Bank, in an office, and the funny thing was — what were the chances? — all of Paris on Thursday morning was soaked in a thick fog. The gray matched the mood of designer, Nicolas Ghesquiere  Balenciaga. It wasn’t intentional. Briefly, Mr. Ghesquiere’s idea was to capture the different styles of office attire among women. “Balenciaga Inc.,” he said backstage. Balenciaga Chic is probably what his fans would prefer to see instead of belted double-faced coats, turtleneck sweaters with cream A-line skirts (though lovely) and chunky sweat shirts in a kind of, um, animal motif. Another blousy top featured cartoon graphics with sayings like “Join a weird trip.” On one level, a spoofy take on corporate dressing is welcomed. All those strange proportions and codes might work as an odd little mirror held up to reality. At one point fashion designer Ghesquiere sent out what looked like jumpsuits; the upper half was a conventional blazer, and the bottom might have been track pants in parachute silk prints, finished off with a belt so that your rear end was guaranteed to look enormous. In New York, we’ve all seen that mishmash of styles on the subway: the thick leather jacket, the ’80s trousers and two-tone elf boots, the touch of metallic animal prints. And the attitude is admirable because it really isn’t about Fashion. But on another level, you don’t need this point of view from Balenciaga. It’s a bit pedestrian. Although the collection had a number of strong pieces, like the skirts and many of the tops, there is just not enough merit to the idea to keep you interested. Fashion Designer Rick Owens opened his Paris collection with floor-scraping coats and pebbly wool dresses, the models’ heads covered in knitted caps that formed cages over their faces. Their lips were bright red. In his fashion, designer Owens was elegant. And he raised the bar with beautiful leather jackets, among his most beautiful, with dolman sleeves; cropped at the waist, they were worn with slim, draped wool skirts in a slightly contrasting tone. After his January Paris men’s show, with its Oscar Wilde allusions that landed like a heavy volume, designer Dries Van Noten use of 17th-century Asian silk prints in his women’s show on Wednesday felt comfortably at home in his world. Maybe Mr. Van Noten can’t be funny on a runway. Continue reading

Fashion Week Milan Fall 2012 trend

©ourtesy Beatrix Zwart | Yahoo! Fashion

Milan Fashion Week has drawn to a close and we’ve taken a look at the key trends to emerge for next season from the Italian catwalks. Fur, as already seen on the Autumn/Winter 2012 runway in both New York and London, also returned to Milan as the winter outerwear favorite.

AW12 trend: Fur. Missoni, Gucci and Etro.

Soft fur jackets contrasted Etro’s boho styles and Missoni’s signature colorful knitted stripes while two-tone fur complimented Marni’s block color collection. Full fur coats were seen at Gucci and Fendi, the former adopting a classic look while the latter opted for bright dyed fur.

AW12 trend: Slate. Anteprima and Sportmax. Continue reading

Jil Sander Fashion Designer ‘Raf Simons’ replaces Galliano

A Fashion show hosted by Jil Sander is usually cool temples of austerity but the atmosphere was crackling with emotion on Saturday when fashion designer Raf Simons showed his final collection for the house at Milan Fashion Week shows. The Belgian-born fashion designer received a standing ovation for his swan song, an opulent symphony to minimalism comprised of clean cuts and double-faced cashmere coats in sugary pinks, pale grey and white fashion looks. The volume of the coats in the fashion show were all countered by fine knit dresses cut close to the body, along with others incorporating seams used to construct geometric shapes. The fashion show was one of the better

Belgian designer Raf Simons cries at the end of his final Jil Sanders show. shows, no doubt. Belgian designer Raf Simons cried  at the end of his final Jil Sander  fashion show. (Photo: AFP) Simons is leaving the brand after 6½ critically acclaimed years to make way for the return of German designer Jil Sander to the house she founded in 1968. It will be the third coming of Sander at her label: she left it twice when it was controlled by the Prada Group because of creative differences. Designer Sander said she was excited to Continue reading

Bottega Veneta Goes Green

Bottega Veneta may not rank highly in the minds of animal lovers, seeing that their spring 2012 collection alone featured glazed crocodile, grommet-covered ostrich, and lizard skin accessories.  But their standing with tree-huggers just went up. The luxury brand’s Milan headquarters was recently awarded a “Carbon Neutral 2010” certification. It’s apparently just the beginning for Bottega though. The brand is planning to reduce greenhouse gas emissions during their fashion week and sales campaigns—times of the year when pollution spikes, according to the brand.  No surprise, considering the amount of power, energy, and air travel that goes into producing a single show. Luckily they’re already moving in the right direction by using carbon credits to offset additional impact. Bottega isn’t the first luxury label to go green, though.  Stand-out predecessors include Stella McCartney and Vivienne Westwood who takes part in the International Trade Centre’s ethical fashion program.  Maria Cornejo‘s also on board—she used fabric made of recycled cassette tapes in her pre-fall collection. All in all, this is certainly a spring trend that we can get behind. – – follow more on Bottega

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